Necchi sewing machine Instruction Manual

NC-204D

Important safety instructions

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety should always be followed, including the following:

Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Read the instruction carefully before you use the machine
2. Keep the instructions at a suitable place close to the machine and hand it over if you give the machine to a third party.
3. Use the machine only in dry locations.
4. Never leave the machine unattended with children or elderly people as they may not be able to estimate the risk.
5. This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction
   concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved.
6. Children shall not play with the appliance.
7. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.
8. Always switch off the machine if you carry out preparation for work (change the needle, feed the yarn through the machine, change the footer, etc.).
9. Always unplug the machine if you leave it unattended, to avoid injury by expediently switch on the machine.
10. Always unplug the machine if you carry out maintenance (oiling, cleaning).
11. Don’t use the machine if it’s wet or in humid environment.
12. Never pull at the cord, always unplug the machine by gripping the plug.
13. If the LED lamp is damaged or broken, it must be replaced by the manufacturer or it’s service agent or a similarly qualified person, in order to avoid a hazard.
14. Never place anything on the pedal.
15. Never use the machine if the air vents are blocked, keep the air vents of the machine and the foot pedal free from dust, fusel and leftovers.
16. The machine must only be used with designated foot controller, in order to avoid a hazard. If the foot controller is damaged or broken, it must be replaced by the manufacturer or its service agent or a similarly qualified person.
17. The sound pressure level at normal operation is smaller than 75dB(A).
18. Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted municipal waste, use separate collection facilities.
19. Contact your local government for information regarding the collection systems available.
20. If electrical appliances are disposed of in landfills or dumps, hazardous substances can leak into the groundwater and get into the food chain, damaging your health and well-being.
21. When replacing old appliances with new ones, the retailer is legally obligated to take back your old appliance for disposal at least for free of charge.
22. The appliance is not to be used by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction. (For outside Europe)
23. Children being supervised not to play with the appliance. (For outside Europe)

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This sewing machine is intended for household use only.

Be sure to use the sewing machine in the temperature range from 5ºC to 40ºC. If the temperature is excessively low, the machine can fail to operate normally.

To carry the sewing machine, hold the carrying handle with your hand, and support the sewing machine with the other hand.

Machine Introduction

Principal parts of the machine

Accessories

Most accessories are stored in the accessory box. The electronic buttonhole foot, walking foot, extension table and soft cover can be found aside of the packing styrofoam.

Standard

1. All purpose foot (already installed)
2. Zipper foot
3. Satin stitch foot
4. Button sewing foot
5. Blind hem foot
6. Overcasting foot
7. Hemmer foot
8. Gathering foot
9. Cording foot
10. Quilting foot
11. Darning/embroidery foot
12. Bobbin (4x) (1x already installed)
13. Spool holder (Large)
14. Spool holder (Small)
15. Spool pin felt
16. Second spool pin
17. L-screwdriver
18. Edge/quilting guide
19. Pack of Needle: 3x single needles (75/11, 90/14, 100/16)
20. Seam ripper/brush
21. Twin needle (80/12, 2.5mm distance)
22. Electronic buttonhole foot
23. Walking foot
24. Extension table
25. Soft cover

Connecting machine to power source

Attention
Always make sure that the machine is unplugged from power source and the main switch is off (“O”), when the machine is not in use and before inserting or removing parts.

Before connecting the power supply, make sure that the voltage shown on the rating plate is conforming with your main power. Put the machine on a stable table.

1. Connect the machine to a power source as illustrated.
2. Turn the power switch to on (“I”).

The sewing lamp will light up when the switch is turned on.

Polarized plug information

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade is wider than the other), to reduce the risk of electrical shock; this plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Foot control
When the machine is off, insert the foot control plug into its connector on the machine.

Turn on the machine, and then slowly press down the foot control to start sewing. Release the foot control to stop the machine.

Foot controller with needle up and down feature

User can quickly press one step on the foot controller to change the needle position go up or down into the fabric.

Note
Consult a qualified electrician if in doubt as to connect the machine to the power source.

Machine Setup

Sewing table

Hold the sewing table horizontally, then pull toward the left to remove it from the machine. Attach the sewing table, and then push it to the right.

The inside space of the sewing table is used as an accessory box.

Free arm
Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular areas such as pant hems and cuffs.

Two-step presser foot lifter

The presser foot lifter is to raise or lower your presser foot.

When sewing multi-layers or thick fabrics, the presser foot can be further raised up manually to allow enough space for your sewing work.

Note
The needle must always be at the highest position.

Install the extension table

Pull the sewing table and accessory box off by sliding it to the left.

Follow the arrow, and stretch the foot of the extension table.

Snap (A) of the extension table into (B) of the machine.

Adjusting the presser foot pressure

The presser foot pressure dial is on the top left of the face plate.

The presser foot pressure of the machine has been pre-set and requires no particular adjustment for general sewing.

Basic presser foot pressure setting: “2”.

For sewing with very thin fabric, reduce the pressure by turning the dial counterclockwise.

If kept turning the dial, it could be take out. By that time, just turn the screw clockwise, it could be locked back and readjust the pressure.

For heavy fabric, increase the pressure by turning it clockwise. Once dial could not be moved any further, it has been reached the bottom, please do not turn any more.

Winding the bobbin

Please following the number order and see the corresponding illustrations below.

1. Place the thread and spool holder onto the spool pin. For better sewing quality, choose a proper size of the spool holder for the thread and attach it next to the spool.
① Large spool holder
② Small spool holder

2. Draw the thread from the spool and place the thread in between the upper thread guide.

3. Wind the thread clockwise around the tension discs.

4. Place the thread end through one of the inner holes as illustrated and place the empty bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle. Then align the notch with bobbin winder spindle spring.
① Notch
② Bobbin winder spindle spring

5. Push the bobbin to the right. When the bobbin winder spindle is pushed to the right, the screen will display the icon.

6. Hold the thread tail securely in one hand. Step on the foot control or press the start/ stop button to start winding the bobbin.

7. After the bobbin has wound a few rounds, stop the machine and cut the thread near the hole of the bobbin. Continue filling the bobbin until it is full. Once the bobbin is full, it rotates slowly. Release the foot control or press the start/stop button to stop the machine, then push the bobbin winder spindle to the left.

8. Cut the thread and then remove the bobbin.

Note
When the bobbin winder spindle is pushed to the right position, it’s in “bobbin winding” mode and the machine is not allowed to sew and the handwheel will not be able to turn. To start sewing, push the bobbin winder spindle back to the left.

Inserting the bobbin

Attention
Turn the power switch to off (“O”).

When inserting or removing the bobbin, the needle and the presser foot must be fully raised.

Open the bobbin cover by pushing the release button to the right.

① Release button
Insert the bobbin in the bobbin case with the thread running in a counter-clockwise direction (arrow).

Pull the thread through the slit (A).

With a finger hold gently on top of the bobbin, please follow the arrow markings and draw the thread into the bobbin thread guide from (A) to (B).

Threading the upper thread

Please following the number order and see the corresponding illustrations below. It is important to carry out the threading correctly to get a quality sewing. Otherwise several problems will occur.

Bringing up the bobbin thread

When sewing gathering or smocking stitch, bring up the bobbin thread first as below instruction.

Replacing the needle

Change the needle regularly, especially when it shows signs of wear or if it causes problems.

Matching needle/fabric/thread

Note

1. In general, fine threads and needles are used for sewing fine fabrics, thicker threads and needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics.
2. Always test thread and needle size on a small piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing.
3. Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
4. Use a stabilizer or place a backing for fine or stretchy fabrics, and select the correct presser foot.
5. It is recommended that a 90/14 needle should be used when embroidering on heavyweight
   fabrics or stabilizing products (for example, denim, puffy foam, etc.). A 75/11 needle may
   bend or break, which could result in injury.
6. For transparent nylon thread, always use needle 90/14 – 100/16. The same thread is usually used for the bobbin thread and upper threading.

Changing the presser foot

Attention
Turn the power switch to off (“O”).
Always use the proper foot for the selected stitch. The wrong foot can cause the needle to break.

To raise or drop the feed dogs

Thread tension

Proper tension setting is important for sewing. There is no single tension setting appropriate for all the stitch functions and fabrics.

Instruction

LCD screen

Operation buttons

Selecting stitch

Memory function buttons

Memory program

You can save frequent-use combining stitches for future use, such as names. Since stored stitches are not lost after the sewing machine is turned off, they can be recalled at any time.

Note

• Multiple stitches selecting from Regular Pattern Group and Alphabet Groups can be combined and sewn together.
• This machine has 2 modules of program memory and each module can retain 40 units of stitches.
• Direct Pattern Group and Regular Pattern Group 010-026 can not be memorized.

Attention
The selected stitch will be cleared from the memory program after closing the machine if you do not press the memory button again when you have completed your selection.

Stitch Chart

Sewing Basics

Straight stitch

Zigzag stitch

Starting to sew

Make sure you follow the needle/fabric/thread combinations and use the suggested presser foot before sewing.

Useful skills

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to
these tips when sewing your project.

The results depend on types of fabrics and stitches. Please use the same fabric of the project
and do a sewing test in advance.

For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are same as those used for your project
and check the thread tension and stitch length and width.

Since the results differ depending on types of stitching and layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

Utility Stitches

Stretch stitch

Sewing stretch fabrics and elastic tape

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

Overcasting stitch

Sewing overcasting stitches along the edge of fabric to prevent it from fraying.

Blind Hem

Secure the bottom of skirts and pants with a blind hem, this stitch will sew with invisible stitch on the right side of the fabric.

Buttonhole stitch

Buttonholes can be adapted to the size of the button.
For stretch fabric or thin fabric, it is recommended to use a stabilizer for a better buttonhole sewing. Slightly reduce upper thread tension to produce better results.

Using the electronic buttonhole foot.
0/012: For thin or medium fabric
015/016: For suits or overcoats
010/014: Heavy-duty buttonholes with vertical bar tacks
011/013: Reinforced waist tapered buttonhole
017/019: For jeans or trousers

Note
Please use the same fabric of the project and do a sewing test in advance.

Mark the positions of the buttonhole on the fabric.
The maximum buttonhole length is 3cm. (Total of diameter + thickness of button.)
The size of the buttonhole is determined by the button inserted in the button plate.

Bar tack stitch

Bar tack stitch is used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings.

Darning stitch

Darning a small hole or a tear before it becomes larger can save a garment. Choose a fine
thread in a color as color as close to your garment possible.

Eyelet stitch

Eyelet stitches are used for making belt holes and other similar applications.

Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lifter.

Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Button sewing

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or 4 holes can be attached.

Zipper insertion

This foot can be set to sew on each side of the zipper, the edge of the foot guides the zipper to ensure straight placement.

Satin stitch sewing

Use the satin stitch foot for satin stitching and sewing decorative stitches.

Gathering

The Gathering Foot is used for gathering fabrics. Ideal for clothing as well as home decor. It works best on thin to medium weight fabrics.

Sew slow to medium speed for better fabric control.

Smocking

The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to the fabric.

Free motion darning, embroidery and monogramming

Quilting

Sandwich batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is call “Quilting”. The top layer is usually formed by multiple geometrically shaped pieces of materials joined together.

Applique

You can create and applique by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration.

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children’s clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

Scallop stitch
The wave-shaped repeating stitch, that looks like shells, is called “scalloping”. It is used to decorate the collar of blouses and the edges of knitting projects.

Cording

Used for embellishing 1 to 3 cords or decorative threads. Sew over one strand of cording to create a pretty swirled design on a jacket or vest or sew over three strands of cording for border trims. Pearl cotton, knitting yarn, embroidery floss, lace thread, fine wool or lily yarn can be used for cording.

Narrow hemming

The hemmer foot is used to stitch the narrow rolled hems usually found on shirt tails, table linens and along the edge of frills.

Walking foot

Always try to sew first without the walking foot which should be used only when necessary.
It is easier to guide the fabric and you have a better view of the seam when using the standard,
regular foot on your machine.

Your sewing machine offers excellent stitch quality on a wide range of fabrics from delicate
chiffons to multiple layers of denim.

The walking foot equalizes the feeding of the upper and lower layers of fabric and improves the
matching of plaids, stripes and stitches. It also helps to prevent uneven feeding of very difficult
fabrics.

Twin needle

Maintenance and Trouble shooting

Maintenance

Attention
Disconnect the power cord from the wall socket before carrying out any maintenance, otherwise injury or electrical shock may result.

Clean the machine surface
If the surface of the sewing machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in mild detergent, squeeze it out firmly and then wipe the surface. After cleaning it once in this way, wipe the surface again with a dry cloth.

Do not use any organic solvents or detergents

Warning Function

Note
If the problem is still not solved, please contact your local dealer.

  Attention
During sewing, if the thread has been jammed inside the hook and needle movement stops. If you continue to sew, the machine will stop automatically due to safety. If machine stops, please turn off the machine firstly then turn on again.

Trouble shooting guide

Before calling for service, check below trouble shooting guides in advance, if problem still exist, please contact nearest dealer or local service center.

Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted municipal waste, use separate collection facilities. Contact your local government for information regarding the collection systems available.

If electrical appliances are disposed of in landfills or dumps, hazardous substances can leak into the groundwater and get into the food chain, damaging your health and well-being. When replacing old appliances with new ones, the retailer is legally obligated to take back your old appliance for disposal at least for free of charge.