Read over the entire instruction guide before you begin your installation.
IMPORTANT: This complete train horn kit uses 12 volt DC components. Only install this kit with a 12 volt DC power source.
CAUTION: To prevent the risk of electrical shock or electrocution:
This is the most important step in your installation.
SAFETY DURING INSTALLATION
We recommend installing our kits in a certain configuration. With the 2 gallon tank, you have two 1/2” ports and four 1/4” ports. Install the tank in position where one 1/4” port is facing down for the drain cock. From there place the gauge, pressure switch and safety blow off valve in the remaining three 1/4” ports. For the two 1/2” ports, one of them will have the 1/2” to 1/4” female reducer bushing for the compressor (1/2” to 3/8” for the Viair 480c) and the other 1/2” port is for the 1/2” PTC to 1/2” NPT M fitting for the horns.
Locate an area for your horns that is dry and free from debris. The horns can be mounted in any direction and still be heard from all around. The horns should not be mounted where they will be completely submerged or will receive any kind of impact. Horns may be mounted directly to your vehicle, on a medium such as grommet strips (plumber’s strap), sheet metal or any sort of custom bracket. Note that air line will be running to each horns rear mount.
Locate a secure area close to your air compressor to mount your air tank. The leader hose of the compressor should be able to reach an available port on the air tank with some slack.
Locate a at and secure installation area that will remain free of dust, dirt, and debris (your compressors performance is directly affected by air quality). Try to keep the distance of the unit from the battery to a minimum to keep your compressor running at maximum performance.
Before cutting any air tubing, make sure to double check your measurements. Make sure to cut equal lengths of air line to connect each horn to the manifold or the horns may sound at different times. We recommend cutting your lengths with at least an extra inch per line just to be safe. Unlike compression fittings, the push to pull connectors can be used multiple times. The air valve should connect to the center fitting of the 4-point banjo fitting. When threading any fittings make sure to use Teflon tape or lock-tight to prevent air leaks. Some fittings may already have pipe sealant applied on their threads for your convenience. The air valve may be mounted in any direction but it is preferred that it is mounted vertically. Your tank has two 1/2” NPT ports and four 1/4” NPT ports. Your train horn kit should use one of the 1/2” ports and the other may be reduced to 1/4” reducer bushing if necessary.
IMPORTANT: The air horns and connecting fittings up to the outlet of the air valve will use 5/16” air line. The air source
unit will use 1/2” air line to connect to the inlet port of the air valve.
IMPORTANT: Do not make any kinks in your air line. Doing so will disrupt air ow and the damage is irreversible. IMPORTANT: The air valve is directional and must be properly installed. There is an arrow on the brass body of the valve that shows the airow direction, the arrow must point towards the horn. Improper installation will cause the valve to malfunction and create a constant air leak to the horns.
[Air Compressor] » [1/4” Leader Hose] » [1/2“ to 1/4” NPT F Reducer] » [Air Tank]
[Air Tank] » [1/2” NPT M to 1/2” PTC Fitting] » [1/2” Air Line] » [1/2” NPT M to 1/2” PTC Fitting] » [Air Valve] » [1/2” to 4x 5/16” NPT M Banjo Fitting] » [5/16” Air Line] » [5/16in P2P to 1/8in NPT F Elbow] » [Rear Horn Mount]
Your air compressor came with two barbed fittings and an air filter housing.
Let’s start by taking the fitting on the left with the male thread and inserting it into the compressor inlet. The other fitting (female end) can be threaded onto the filter housing directly. Your compressor/filter should look like the image below. At this point, you can use the supplied 3/8” air line to connect the compressor and filter together.
Route the air filter up to a high and dry location where it will not get wet or exposed to the elements. The compressor itself is fully sealed but if your filter gets wet, the compressor can pull water into itself and this will lead to problems later on down the road. Your compressor will last much longer if the filter is relocated to a high and dry location. Be careful not to kink the air line while routing the filter around.
*If your compressor is mounted outside where it is exposed to the elements, the filter MUST be relocated.
DRAIN COCK TO TANK:
1. Install the drain cock into the bottom 1/4” port on the bottom of the tank. If the drain cock already has sealant on its threads it is unnecessary to use Teflon tape on the threads.
[Air Tank] » [1/4” NPT Port] » [Pressure Switch unit]
1. Install the pressure switch unit into an available port on the air tank using Teflon tape or pipe sealant on the threading. Make sure to mount the pressure switch on the side or the top of the tank so that condensation will not be able to drain in to the pressure switch. Hand tighten only, and don’t tighten by twisting the box.
1. Install the safety valve into any spare 1/4” NPT port on your air tank. If the safety valve already has sealant on its threads, it is unnecessary to use Teflon tape on the threads. Do not mount on bottom of tank, and do not use as drain.
1. Install the Hornblasters Air Gauge in the last remaining 1/4” NPT port using Teflon tape or paste on the threads. Make sure to mount the air pressure gauge on the side or the top of the tank so that condensation will not be able to drain in to the gauge.
Your train horn kit will use two completely independent circuits. One circuit will connect your horn trigger (push-button switch, or toggled factory button) to your electric solenoid valve. The other circuit will connect your accessory trigger (ignition wire, accessory wire) to your air source kit. If you have trouble with wiring, you can nd a wiring diagram of your vehicle on www. the12volt.com. This can help you locate certain wires to properly and safely install your train horn kit!
[Factory Horn Wire] » [Toggle Switch) » [Air Valve] » [Ground]
YOU’RE DONE!
It’s time to test your horns! Share your install photos on our Facebook fan page at www.facebook.com/hornblasters and don’t forget to check out www.trainhornforums.com, the largest train horn community on the internet!
Disconnect electrical components and drain you air system before performing maintenance.
TIPS
Air horn will not sound. | 1. No pressure in air tank.
2. No power or toggle switch in ‘Off’ position. 3. Blown fuse. 4. Loose connections or bad ground in air valve circuit (circuit 1). |
1. Check that air tank is pressurized.
2. Make sure all toggle switches are on. 3. Disconnect electrical components and replace fuse. 4. Check that all electrical circuits are secure and not corroded. |
Horn tone changes when sounded | 1. A side fitting as used to connect the air source (line from valve) to
the 4-point banjo manifold. 2. Air line connecting the horns is not of equal length. |
1. Check that air source (line coming from valve) is entering the
center fitting of the 4-point banjo manifold. 2. Check that the air line connecting each horn to the 4-point banjo manifold is of equal length. |
Excessive moisture in horn or safety discharge. | 1. Excessive water in tank.
2. Compressor is exposed to high humidity. |
1. Depressurize tank using safety, then drain tank. Tilt the tank to drain moisture and drain more frequently.
2. Move the compressor to an area with less humidity. |
Compressor will not run. | 1. No power or toggle switch in ‘Off’ position.
2. Blown fuse. 3. Motor overheat. 4. Faulty pressure switch. |
1. Make sure all toggle switches are on.
2. Disconnect compressor from power & replace fuse (35A). 3. Let compressor cool off for about 30 minutes for thermal overload switch to reset. 4. Replace pressure switch. |
Thermal overload protector cuts out repeatedly. | 1. Lack of proper ventilation/ambient temperature too high.
2. Compressor valves failed. |
1. Move compressor to a well ventilated area or an area with a lower ambient temperature.
2. Replace air compressor. |
Excessive knocking or rattling | 1. Loose mounting bolts.
2. Worn bearing on eccentric or motor shaft. 3. Cylinder or piston ring is worn. |
1. Tighten bolts.
2. Replace compressor. 3. Replace compressor. |
Tank pressure drops when compressor shuts off | 1. Loose drain cock.
2. Air valve or check valve is leaking. 3. Loose connections. 4. Defective safety valve. |
1. Tighten drain cock.
2. Replace air valve or check valve. 3. Check all air connections with soap and water solution and tighten as necessary. 4. Replace safety valve. |
Compressor runs continuously and air flow lower than normal | 1. Excessive air usage.
2. Loose connections. 3. Worn piston ring or inlet valve. 4. Clogged air filter element. |
1. Decrease air usage.
2. Check all connections with soap and water solution and tighten as necessary. 3. Replace compressor 4. Replace air filter element. |
Compressor runs continuously causing safety valve to open. | 1. Faulty pressure switch.
2. Defective safety valve. |
1. Replace pressure switch.
2. Replace safety valve. |
CAN’T FIGURE IT OUT?
No problem! Give us a call at 813-783-8058, or email at [email protected] and we’ll be more than happy to help you fix your system. Also feel free to visit our online horn community, www.trainhornforums.com, for more information.
Send in your installation photographs and any other media for a chance to be featured on our web site!
No matter what your take is on your new train horn kit, it’s always good to have someone to share your stories with. Trainhornforums.com is the largest train horn community online and provides a place to share photos of your ride, post videos, catch up with other train horn and HornBlasters fans, meet other train horn enthusiasts, or even find help with a complicated question.
Go online to www.trainhornforums.com and sign up today!
Horn Activation via Steering Wheel
The horn itself can be wired up a few different ways. If you would like to honk your train horns with the steering wheel, start by locating the factory horn. On most vehicles, the factory horn is directly ahead of the radiator, or mounted in a fender-well. Once the OEM horn is located, we need to find the positive wire connected to the stock horn. Using the supplied Scotchlok/tap connector, splice a new lead to the positive horn wire and route it over to a toggle switch
(optional). Route the opposite lead of the toggle switch out to the solenoid valve for your horns. You can connect this lead to one of the two wires on the solenoid valve for the horn. Take the opposite wire from the horn and route it to the frame as a ground point. At this point, press the steering wheel and listen for a click from the air horn solenoid valve. If you have air in the tank already, the horn should honk. If you need more assistance completing this connection, give us a call @ (877)-209-8179 or shoot us an email to [email protected]
BEFORE GETTING STARTED
Read over the entire instruction guide before you begin your installation.
WARNING: To prevent injury:
SAFETY DURING INSTALLATION
PLANNING YOUR INSTALLATION
RECOMMENDED TOOLS
INSTALLING YOUR HORNBLASTERS TRAIN HORNS
The horns can be mounted in any direction and still be heard from all around. The horns should not be mounted where they will be completely submerged or will receive any kind of impact. Horns may be mounted directly to your vehicle, on a medium such as grommet strips (plumber’s strap), sheet metal or any sort of custom bracket. Note that air line will be running to each horns rear mount.
INSTALLING YOUR AIR SOURCE KIT
Locate a flat and secure installation area that will remain free of dust, dirt, and debris (your compressor’s performance is directly affected by air quality). Try to keep the distance of the unit from the battery to a minimum to keep your compressor running at maximum performance.
Air Filter Relocation
INSTALLING YOUR AIR TUBING & AIR VALVE
Before cutting any air tubing make sure to double check your measurements. Make sure to cut equal lengths of air line to connect each horn to the manifold or the horns may sound at different times. We recommend cutting lengths with at least an extra inch per line just to be safe. Unlike compression fittings our push to connect fittings can be used multiple times. The air valve should connect to the center fitting of the banjo fitting. When threading any fittings make sure to use Teflon tape to prevent air leaks. The air valve may be mounted in any direction but it preferred that it is mounted vertically.
FITTING FLOW CHART
[Air Source] » [1/2” Line] » [1/2” to 1/2” NPT M Fitting] » [Air Valve] » [5/16” 4-point Banjo Fitting] » [5/16“ Line] » [5/16” to 1/8”NPT F Elbow Fitting] » [Rear Horn Mount]
WIRING YOUR VALVE & AIR SOURCE UNIT
Your train horn kit will use two completely independent circuits. One circuit will connect your horn trigger (push-button intermittent switch, or toggled factory button) to your electric valve. The other circuit will connect your accessory trigger (ignition positive wire) to your air source kit.
VALVE WIRING FLOW CHART
[Factory Horn Wire] » [Toggle Switch] » [Air Valve] » [Ground] AIR SOURCE WIRING FLOW CHART [Remote Wire/Accessory Wire] » [Inline Fuse] » [Air Source Unit] » [Ground]
CIRCUIT 1
CIRCUIT 2
YOU’RE DONE!
It’s time to test your horns! Share your install photos on our facebook at www.facebook.com/hornblasters or and don’t forget to check www.trainhornforums.com, the largest train horn community on the internet.
Disconnect electrical components and drain you air system before performing maintenance.
GENERAL AIR HORN SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
TIPS
PROBLEM
CAN’T FIGURE IT OUT?
No problem! Give us a call at 813-783-8058, or email at [email protected] and we’ll be more than happy to help you fix you system. Also feel free to visit our online horn community, www.trainhornforums.com, for more information.
PHOTOGRAPH & MEDIA SUBMISSION GUIDELINES
Send in your installation photographs and any other media for a chance to be featured on our web site!
GENERAL PHOTOGRAPH SUBMISSION GUIDELINES
INSTALLATION GALLERY SUBMISSION GUIDELINES
GENERAL VIDEO SUBMISSION GUIDELINES
GET INVOLVED IN THE TRAIN HORN COMMUNITY
No matter what your take is on your new train horn kit, it’s always good to have someone to share your stories with Trainhornforums.com is the largest train horn community online and provides a place to share photos of your ride, post videos catch up with other train horn and HornBlasters fans, meet other train horn enthusiasts, or even find help with a complicatedquestion. Go online to www.trainhornforums.com and sign up today
Make sure the 5/16″ lines are equal length!Ensure each air line is fully seated over the compression fitting before tightening the nu down over it. If the line is not fully seated over the barb, it can slip off the fitting even with the nut in place. Hold the line in place and use a wrench to tighten the compression ferrule down. The compressor filter must be changed out every 2-3 months, otherwise the compressor will start to!pull in dirt/dust and wearprematurely. The filter!can be swapped out with three easy steps, as! shown below.
Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the filter housing apart. You can insert the flat end of the screwdriver into the seam, where the arrow is Remove the old filter element from the housing. Insert the new element into the center so that the white portion of the filter lines up with the plastic tags replace the cove back over the housing, lining the tabs up on the sides of the cover
Wiring the Relay
Key-Power-Source (Normal Method)
If you’re having trouble locating a fuse that is only hot when the vehicle is on, you can go online to https://fuse-box.info/. You can use a test light to check whether or not the fuses are hot with the key in the off position. Route the black probe/clip to the battery negative terminal (-) and use the red probe on the metal contacts of the fuse(s) you want to check. If the light comes on, your fuse is hot. If the light does not turnon, start the vehicle and check for current. The light should illuminate now that the vehicle is running.
Using A Toggle Switch Instead
You can use a toggle switch to ensure the compressor doesn’t run when the vehicle is off. To do this locate the supplied toggle switch that came with your horn kit. Wire one lead of the toggle switch to the output side of your inline fuse holder, and take the opposite lead of the toggle switch to pin 86 on the relay. When you flip the switch on, the relay will switch on and allow the compressor run. Wiring your kit this way unfortunately means that you MUST turn the switch off with the vehicle, otherwise the compressor coul run overnight and drain your battery.
Connecting the Train Horns to the Steering Wheel
Connecting the Train Horns to a Push Button
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